Grape Varieties – Decanter

Covenant: California kosher fine wine producer profile and 10 wines tasted

Jonathan Cristaldi — Thu, 07 Dec 2023 07:17:51 +0000

Covenant owner and winemaker Jeff Morgan

Covenant founding winemaker Jeff Morgan, 70, is both driven and eccentric. He favours the underdog. Take rosé, for instance. Morgan played an outsized role in jump-starting the rosé renaissance in America more than 20 years ago – long before it was fashionable.

Not only did Morgan co-found SoloRosa, the first American winery dedicated solely to dry rosé, but in 2005, he penned the first English language book on the subject as well (Rosé, A Guide to the World’s Most Versatile Wine, Chronicle Books).

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for ten Covenant wines tasted

In 2003, high-end kosher wine seemed like a long shot. But Covenant was among the first wineries to demonstrate that fine wine made with native yeast and organic grapes and without fining or filtration can also be kosher. It was a novel concept at the time.

Ten Covenant wines tasted

American Zinfandel on Zinfandel Day

Sonoma County AVAs: Overview and 10 wines to try

Signorello Estate: Meeting winemaker Priyanka French plus four current releases tasted

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Wine with turkey: A food pairing guide

Chris Wilson — Fri, 01 Dec 2023 07:00:49 +0000

Classic styles when pairing wine with turkey:

Full-bodied Chardonnay, such as those from Burgundy or California
Pinot Noir
Mature Bordeaux, Rioja or Barolo
Beaujolais (Gamay)

Remember that turkey is not a powerful meat

When pairing wine with turkey, remember that this is a white meat with a low fat content, which is why it can dry out if not cooked carefully.

Your wine matches should ideally be either a full-bodied white wine or a medium-bodied red, with low or medium tannin and relatively high acidity.

**Search all Decanter wine reviews**

Do you know somebody who wants to start learning about how to pair, taste and serve your favourite wines? Pairing & serving wine: a guide for the real beginner is a new online learning course from Decanter designed to introduce the basic principles and start beginners on their journey through the fascinating world of wine. Find out more…

Pairing wine with turkey: a visual guide

Click on the turkey and wine pairing graphic below to see a full-size version.

Tips on matching turkey with wine. Credit: Annabelle Sing / Decanter

Decanter Premium: The perfect gift for a special wine lover

The basic rules of pairing wine with turkey

Let’s talk about tannins

Fine tannins are great in a balanced wine with some bottle age, but too much mouth-coating tannin could also ruin all those hours you’ve spent in the kitchen.

There is likely to be a dearth of fat on the plate in general, leaving little to soften tannins in a big, bold, young wine.

This can accentuate the harsh feeling of tannins in the mouth, eclipsing other flavours. The saltiness of the turkey can also make tannins taste more bitter.

It may seem strange that classic wine choices include those with relatively high tannin levels, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends from Bordeaux.

This, however, is where several years of bottle age come into play. Tannins will soften and integrate over time in the best wines.

Embrace acidity when pairing wine with turkey

A roast turkey dinner is often full of flavours and complexity. Sides like cranberry, bacon, parsnips, stuffing and Brussels sprouts are just some of the dishes vying for attention.

A wine with medium or high levels of acidity should be able to cope better with these myriad flavours.

Red wine with turkey

Taste is personal and there are many options out there, but but Pinot Noir is often seen as a great match for turkey dinners.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir from bolder Burgundy crus, such as Gevrey-Chambertin or Pommard, should work exceptionally well.

If you can stretch to the Grand Cru of Chambertin then you’re in for a treat, but there are also plenty of less expensive options out there. Try looking towards Fixin or Santenay, for example.

Some lighter styles of Burgundy Pinot, such as classic Volnay wines, may be overpowered by the range of flavours on your plate.

You can also look to other relatively cool-climate regions known for great Pinot Noir. These include Central Otago in New Zealand, Mornington Peninsula in Australia, The Finger Lakes in New York State or even Essex or Kent in the UK, too.

Pinot Noir is also a good pairing with cold roast turkey leftovers, according to food and wine expert Fiona Beckett. She previously recommended ‘a riper, more robustly fruity Pinot Noir from, say, California, Oregon or New Zealand’.

Beaujolais Cru

Gamay is arguably still underrated as a grape variety and yet it can produce red wines offering delicious depth, as well as drinking pleasure.

In its Beaujolais heartland, look towards the 10 ‘Crus’, and perhaps especially those known for making slightly more powerful styles, such as Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent.

Aged Bordeaux

Cabernet Sauvignon is in a completely different universe to what we’ve just talked about, with big tannins, big acidity and lots of luscious dark fruit.

Merlot, too, carries significant weight in its classic Bordeaux Right Bank form.

Yet the delicately poised balance of fruit, acidity and integrated tannins can still work wonders with your turkey dinner, if tertiary aromas from a few years of bottle age have started to develop around the edges.

Last year, Decanter revisited the Bordeaux 2012 vintage 10 years on from the harvest, and Jane Anson selected a fine collection from the 2000s that are beginning to drink wonderfully.

Aged Barolo or Chianti Classico are other classic reds to consider with turkey.

Mature Rioja can combine those lovely, earthy, mushroomy aromas with bright red fruit and medium-weight tannins. There are also plenty of relatively good value options.

Be wary of choosing a wine with too much oak influence, however.

White wine with turkey

Chardonnay

A full-bodied Chardonnay can be an enchanting accompaniment to your turkey, especially with traditional sides like bread sauce.

The best examples exude oaky richness that can give sweet spice notes. Creamy lactic acid also really helps out with a meat that can sometimes be on the dry side. A backbone of acidity brings balance to the flavours.

Good Chardonnays, in general, are found in the similar geographical areas to good Pinot Noir.

White Burgundy will work well at almost all levels.

Those lucky enough to be able to choose a Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru or a Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru are unlikely to be disappointed.

The high levels of minerality and acidity in these wines help to cleanse the palate, allowing you to wade through all the trimmings effortlessly.

The Mâconnais is an area to explore for relative value options, particularly for anyone who enjoys riper fruit notes on their Chardonnay.

Other wonderful examples can be found in Australia, from Victoria to Adelaide Hills and Margaret River, or in California from Napa Valley to Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and Santa Barbara County.

Don’t overlook South Africa, home to this ‘fresh and spiky’ Chardonnay from Storm, or New Zealand, such as this fantastic value, ‘silky and pure’ offering from Wairarapa.

Top tip for cooking turkey:

‘Take off the legs and cook them separately from the crown,’ says Stephen Harris, chef at the Sportsman in Whitstable, Kent. ‘It’s easy to overcook the breast otherwise. I like to confit the legs in goose fat and last year I sous-vided the breast, which worked well.’

Tasting notes: Wine with turkey suggestions

Wine with beef: Pairing advice and styles to try

Wine with pork: Advice on great pairings

Wines to drink with turkey curry – Christmas leftovers

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DFWE 2023 Burgundy masterclass: Corton Grand Cru wines

Charles Curtis MW — Thu, 30 Nov 2023 10:27:59 +0000

Why Corton?

The hill of Corton is an arrestingly beautiful place to even the most casual passer-by. As one arrives from Beaune, it rises suddenly to dominate the landscape.

In geological terms, the hill is an outlier, freed from the main slope of the Côte d’Or by erosion. Vines wrap almost completely around the hill, facing every direction from northeast to almost due west, making this the only grand cru in Burgundy with a western exposure.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 12 wines in the Corton Grand Cru masterclass

Corton Grand Cru masterclass: All 12 wines rated

FWE 2023 Ornellaia masterclass: Four decades of a Tuscan icon
Cellar Collection 2023 at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter
Burgundy: a complete guide to Corton

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Napa Valley's Darioush: Producer profile plus 10 wines tasted

Jonathan Cristaldi — Wed, 29 Nov 2023 08:00:01 +0000

Darioush Khaledi

Many high-end producers along Napa Valley’s storied wine routes took on wine as a second (or third) career after securing their fortunes in other lucrative fields. None of them have quite the same story as Darioush Khaledi.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 current releases from Napa’s Darioush

Today, Khaledi is famous for being the proprietor of Darioush, an eye-popping merger of a winery and hospitality centre he and his wife Shahpar designed.

Darioush: Tasting notes and scores for 10 current releases

Signorello Estate: Meeting winemaker Priyanka French plus four current releases tasted

Napa and Sonoma 2023: Harvest forecast

Bella Oaks Vineyard retrospective: A 15-vintage vertical

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Walls: The next step for Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle

Matt Walls — Tue, 28 Nov 2023 08:00:14 +0000

Chapelle Sante-Christophe on Hermitage hill.

Caroline Frey, owner of Paul Jaboulet Aîné, has decided to uncouple La Chapelle (and its white counterpart, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg) from the Paul Jaboulet Aîné brand by creating a separate entity, Domaine de la Chapelle, which will be the new home for these two wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the 2022 Domaine de la Chapelle red and white wines

Tasting notes and scores for the 2022 Domaine de la Chapelle red and white wines:

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Southern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The north

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Regional profile: Champagne's Montagne de Reims

Tom Hewson — Mon, 27 Nov 2023 08:32:44 +0000

Verzenay Windmill

The vineyards in the northern part of the Champagne region are often sliced into three distinct areas: the Côte des Blancs for Chardonnay, the Marne Valley for Meunier and the Montagne de Reims for Pinot Noir.

Scroll down to see tasting ntoes and scores for Tom Hewson’s top picks of Montagne de Reims Champagnes

The first two can be neatly surmised: the Côte des Blancs is a single, chalky cuesta – a hill with a steep face on one side and a gentle slope on the other – that can be driven north to south in 20 minutes. The Marne Valley is a winding valley planted with an overwhelming majority of one grape variety and with hardly a grain of chalk to play with. The Montagne de Reims, though, is different.

Tom Hewson’s picks of the best Champagnes from the Montagne de Reims

Regional profile: Champagne’s Côte des Bar

A guide to non-vintage Champagne

Champagne 2013: 10 years on

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DFWE 2023: Discovery Tasting of Viña Santa Rita's Casa Real

Ines Salpico — Sat, 25 Nov 2023 08:00:25 +0000

Sebastián Labbé, premium wines winemaker at Santa Rita, presenting at the DFWE

It was not hard for Sebastián Labbé to capture the attention of an audience drawn to a tasting of multiple vintages of Viña Santa Rita Casa Real, the wine that inscribed Chile in the fine wine firmament, worthy of a place among Decanter’s Wine Legends.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for three vintages of Santa Rita Casa Real Reserva Especial

Born in Chile and trained in New Zealand and Australia, Labbé returned to his home country in 2005, aged 25, to join Viña Carmen as Chief Winemaker. In early 2017, he was given the outstanding opportunity of leading the Ultra-Premium Sector at sister estate Viña Santa Rita (both Viña Carmen and Viña Santa Rita are part of Santa Rita Estates, under the umbrella of the Claro Group). With such privilege came the big responsibility of becoming the custodian of some of Chile’s most recognised and highly-regarded labels, not least the flagship Casa Real Reserva Especial.

Before him, only two other winemakers – Ignacio Recabarren and Cecilia Torres – had held the Casa Real helm. Alongside owner Ricardo Claro (the mastermind behind the creation of Casa Real) they defined a recognisable and consistent style that quickly turned heads both in Chile and abroad. First released in 1989, Casa Real revealed the potential of an overlooked terroir and its ability to yield a very specific expression of premium Cabernet Sauvignon.

See all Decanter tasting notes and scores for Santa Rita’s premium wines

In 2021, to celebrate the release of the 30th vintage of Casa Real, Viña Santa Rita made the wine available, for the first time, through La Place de Bordeaux. The announcement represented yet another pivotal moment in the wine’s history, consolidating its status as an iconic and pioneering Chilean label.

So far, Labbé’s tenure has been shaped by this prestigious legacy but also, and increasingly, by viticultural challenges and ambitious expansion plans. His own personal journey served as the perfect narrative thread for the insightful masterclass at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter.

Credit: Ellen Richardson

A very Chilean Cabernet

Key to Casa Real’s enduring success are its consistency and classic yet characterful style, both reliant on the particular expression of Cabernet Sauvignon delivered by the terroirs of Alto Jahuel. Labbé delved into the three key variables that define this idiosyncrasy: geology, climate and viticultural choices.

A complex accumulation of alluvial sediments deposited strata in different ways across the slopes of Alto Jahuel, with distinct textures dynamically layered at variable depths. This creates a great deal of diversity within each vineyard, producing interesting if minute variations in fruit character. The heavier soils of the Carneros Viejos block, planted in the 1970s, are responsible for the wine’s more structural components, while the more gravely Población, a block planted in the 1980s, adds finesse and aromatic nuance. All blocks benefit from the long dry growing season, with cooling night winds from the Andes causing a wide temperature diurnal range. Cool nights help to preserve a fine acidity, keep alcohol levels in check and, says Labbé, shape the distinct aromatic profile of Cabernet Sauvignon that has become synonymous with Alto Jahuel and Casa Real.

Combined, Carneros Viejos, Población and recently planted, smaller sites – all ungrafted – make up the nearly 20 hectares that supply fruit for Casa Real. Plans to plant another 20 are underway. These will use plant material from massal selections from the existing plots. Labbé is not sure, however, if all of them will be on their own rootstock.

Grafted experiments delivered promising results, questioning the need for orthodoxy. Although he does recognise that much of Casa Real’s aromatic definition and purity of fruit might be a byproduct of own-root systems, other considerations – such as ever diminishing water resources – might need to come into play.

Viña Santa Rita Casa Real discovery tasting at the DFWE 2023. Credit: Ellen Richardson

Blending to perfection

If the different plots within the Casa Real vineyards deliver such nuanced aspects of Cabernet Sauvignon, carving – and remaining faithful – to a defined style requires mindful and masterful blending. For the masterclass, Labbé brought with him barrel samples from the 2023 vintage to illustrate the wide palette of components, from separately vinified plots, at his disposal. These also offered a glimpse of the ‘epic blending sessions’ held each year, in Bordeaux, alongside consultant Eric Boissenot.

The filigreed aromatics of the Población sites and the more robust structure of the Carneros Viejos sections became apparent in the barrel samples tasted. It’s not hard to see how, upon blending, these create a balanced matrix, in which the tannic framework of Carneros holds the vibrant and perfumed details of the Población fruit. Interestingly, a sample from a more recently-planted plot (Carneros Sur, 2015) had a particular balance of its own, promising great things from new and future plantings.

The tasting closed with a selection of three vintages: 2020, 2012 and 1994 (see tasting notes below). The latter showcased the somewhat overlooked longevity of Casa Real. While ready to drink, it still displays bags of finesse, freshness and the lingering herbal savouriness which is so characteristic of Alto Jahuel Cabernet Sauvignon.

Looking ahead

Winemaking at Santa Rita has so far been, first and foremost, a way of harnessing the quality of the Cabernet fruit that goes into Casa Real. Hand-harvested grapes are gently basket pressed and vinified in more than 25 small batches (some through spontaneous fermentation). The wine is bottled without filtration and clarification.

Is this purist approach – and the recognisable style it facilitates – being questioned by climate change? Labbé explained that, to preserve balance and character, the focus will be on strategic viticultural decisions, such as harvesting earlier and increasing the use of cover crops.

He is already making minor tweaks in the cellar though: the use of new oak has been toned down (75%, down from 100%) and there’s a chance future vintages might go through gentle clarification, which Labbé believes might help the Cabernet Sauvignon fruit to shine even more. ‘I want to remain respectful to the heritage and style I had the privilege of inheriting,’ he concludes. ‘All changes are done to preserve the character that has made Casa Real such an iconic wine.’

Casa Real’s label has remained largely unchanged since its first release, in 1989

DFWE 2023: Three vintages of Santa Rita Casa Real Reserva Especial

Chile harvest report 2023: ‘A year that kept you on your toes’

September fine wine releases on La Place de Bordeaux 2023

Decanter’s Dream Destination: Hotel Casa Real, Viña Santa Rita, Maipo Valley, Chile

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Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls — Thu, 23 Nov 2023 11:33:22 +0000

Côte-Rôtie

Young Côte-Rôties are normally fairly easy to read, but that wasn’t the case with the 2022s. Many of them appeared very fruity, with soft structures, lacking energy and aromatic detail. There were some excellent exceptions however, often from those originating from old vines grown on schist and fermented with a proportion of whole bunch.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Côte-Rôtie & Condrieu 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 95 points or above, and are listed Condrieu then Côte-Rôtie in score order.

Walls: Côte-Rôtie 2019 in bottle

Walls’ hidden gems: Domaine Garon, Côte-Rôtie

Regional profile: Condrieu plus 12 wines to seek out

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St-Joseph 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls — Thu, 23 Nov 2023 09:31:47 +0000

AOC Saint Joseph

It felt like I was tasting two different vintages while working my way through more than 100 St-Josephs this year. Some of the reds were diminutive but fresh and well-balanced; others were soft, luxurious and liqueur-fruited.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring St-Joseph 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring St-Joseph 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 92 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Rhône 2022 en primeur diary: The north

Walls: Discovering St-Joseph estate Martine & Christian Rouchier

St-Joseph 2021: report and top-scoring wines

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Cornas & St-Péray 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 15:15:06 +0000

Cornas

It was particularly dry in Cornas, with about 100mm of rain between April and harvest, according to Pierre Clape. It’s no surprise therefore that the ripening blockages are felt more keenly here than elsewhere in the north. ‘But the leaves stayed green, in contrast to 2003,’ says Clape.

Tannins can be difficult, rough and fibrous in places, but, both here and elsewhere, sensitive use of oak has helped to paper over the cracks and add some palate weight.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Cornas & St-Péray 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 92 points or above, and are listed in order of St-Péray and Cornas in score order.

Walls: 10 exciting estates to know in Cornas

Cornas to drink now: Matt Walls’ top 20

Expert’s Choice: St-Péray

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Ontario Chardonnay: 20 cool-climate buys from Canada

Tina Gellie — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 08:00:25 +0000

Hidden Bench Vineyards, Beamsville Bench.

Telling people I was heading on a work trip to the Niagara Peninsula, in Canada’s eastern province of Ontario, the response was invariably ‘oh, for the Icewine’. Even friends from my birth city of Ottawa, Canada’s capital and a 5.5-hour drive from the heart of the winelands, were surprised that anything else would lure a wine writer across the pond.

Just as there are lingering outdated perceptions that all Sherry and German Riesling is sweet and old fashioned, it seems there’s still a way to go to convince the general public that Ontario has many (many) more strings to its winemaking bow.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores of 20 Ontario Chardonnay wines to try

While growers planted the first vinifera vines of the modern era in 1974, with the first winery licence post-prohibition registered in 1975, the Ontario wine industry didn’t really kick off domestically until the 1990s. The first wine (yes, an Icewine) didn’t hit British shelves until 2001, and by 2013 – only a decade ago – there were still only three Ontario wineries exporting still wines to the UK.

Ontario Chardonnay: 20 top wines to buy

North & South America Pinot Noir: Panel tasting results

Canadian rosé: Patriotically pink for Canada Day

Discovering Canada’s Similkameen Valley

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Hermitage 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls — Tue, 21 Nov 2023 12:23:54 +0000

It’s an unusual style of red Hermitage this year: smaller in structure and stature than a usual year. Again, as with other appellations, it’s primarily down to problems with ripening – Guillaume Sorrel said it didn’t rain at all on the hill of Hermitage in June, July or August, and Maxime Chapoutier remembers the mercury hitting 40 ̊C as early as June.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Hermitage 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Hermitage 2022 wines:

The wines below scored 92 points and above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Walls: Get to know the 20 lieux-dits of Hermitage

Walls: Tasting Hermitage 2001 20 years on

Getting to know white Hermitage

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Crozes-Hermitage 2022: Report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls — Tue, 21 Nov 2023 12:23:39 +0000

After the disastrous 2021 vintage, 2022 is certainly a step up, though stylistically it couldn’t be more varied.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2022 wines

See all 400 Rhône 2022 tasting notes and scores

Rhône 2022 full vintage report and top-scoring wines

Northern Rhône 2022: Full report and top-scoring wines

Matt Walls’ top-scoring Crozes-Hermitage 2022 wines:

The wines below all scored 90 points or above, and are listed white then red in score order.

Crozes-Hermitage 2021: report and top-scoring wines

Rhône producer to know: Domaine Laurent Habrard, Crozes-Hermitage

Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting results

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Thanksgiving wine pairings and 15 American wines to try

Brianne Cohen — Mon, 20 Nov 2023 07:00:25 +0000

The Thanksgiving table includes a myriad of dishes and flavours, starting with appetisers to graze on as guests arrive. The buffet lineup of traditional dishes typically includes roast turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, casseroles and cranberry relish. Plates are filled with these favourites, and in one bite, you might get turkey, stuffing, potatoes and gravy. So, how do you pair wines with this array of flavours?

A good starting point is to remember that the Thanksgiving table may not be the time to pour standout, robust wines. Nor is it the time to fret about wine pairings with particular dishes. The goal is to serve a lineup of light-bodied, versatile and easy-drinking wines that can work with the multitude of flavours on the table. And most importantly, select wines that are likely to please your guests’ varying palates. Thanksgiving is a time to break bread and enjoy a hearty, home-cooked meal with those closest to you. Your wine selections accentuate this holiday tradition, not the featured attraction.

Pairing principles

Below are simple wine and food pairing principles for the Thanksgiving table and throughout the year. A good starting point is understanding what’s happening in the glass and on the plate and how those things can create an experience greater than the sum of its parts. These guiding principles of wine and food pairings are evergreen and are meant to enhance a delicious meal with tasty wines and fine company.

Wine and food pairings are more fluid than definitive. Tradition says that specific foods call for particular wines. Things such as oysters and Chablis or steak and Cabernet Sauvignon. With Thanksgiving mains, many point to Pinot Noir as the ideal pairing for a simple roasted turkey. Those combinations are examples of successful pairings, but other options exist. Oysters and sparkling wine (particularly Champagne), steak and Syrah, and turkey and Chardonnay work just as well.

Think less of the food or protein and more specifically of the preparation. When it comes to the turkey, is it deep-fried or roasted? With sweet potatoes, are they baked in a sweet casserole or roasted with pancetta? The preparation method or sauce may drive what wine will work best.

Food made with acid-based sauces (such as tomatoes, vinegar or lemon) goes well with Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir. Rich sauces work best with high-acid wines to refresh or with rich, full-bodied wines to really step into the richness. If there’s any spice on the table, such as a spicy sausage stuffing, lower-alcohol wines with some residual sugar (like Riesling) will work well.

Thanksgiving wine pairing. Credit: The Good Brigade / DigitalVision via Getty Images

Matching food and wines with similar weights and richness is one of the keys to pairing success. To do this, one must think of food and wine, both existing on a spectrum. Light-bodied wines with light dishes and full-bodied wines with rich or spice-driven dishes. So with lighter vegetable dishes, such as green bean almondine or shaved Brussels sprouts salad, an acid-driven white blend might work best. For a baking spice-dominant sweet potato casserole, an oaky red blend with spicy, toasty notes would pair well.

When thinking about wine pairings for Thanksgiving, think about if you’d like to balance or accentuate the flavours on the table. For rich dishes such as buttered mashed potatoes, mac and cheese or candied yams, you can balance the richness and fattiness with a high acid, palate-cleansing white such as Riesling or Pinot Gris. In contrast, accentuate and step into the richness with a full-bodied, creamy Chardonnay.

Thanksgiving wine pairings: 15 American wines to try

Serving Thanksgiving wine: Expert tips

Wine with pork: Advice on great pairings

Great orange wines for autumn: 12 to try

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Southern Oregon 2021: Vintage report

Clive Pursehouse — Sat, 18 Nov 2023 08:00:05 +0000

Troon Vineyard

The region’s vintners welcomed the 2021 vintage after what was a cataclysmic year in 2020, marred by wildfire smoke. The heat dome phenomenon was the signature event of the growing season. Yet, as in the Willamette Valley further to the north, it occurred early enough in the summer not to impact the vintage’s final wines. Yields were below average, and the dry conditions marked the beginning of a drought that is still ongoing in this part of Oregon.

Overall, the wines from 2021 in Southern Oregon are riper in style, and the white wines show brilliant balance. While many of the red wines have yet to be released, they are tending towards opulence and ripeness overall.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 21 top wines from Southern Oregon in 2021

Warm but not hot

Southern Oregon 2021: Top-wines tasted

Oregon’s Willamette Valley 2021: Vintage report and top-scoring wines

Willamette Valley rising stars: eight names to know

Corollary unveils plans to become Oregon’s first exclusively sparkling wine production estate

The post Southern Oregon 2021: Vintage report appeared first on Decanter.

The Duckhorn Portfolio to purchase Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards for $400m

Martin Green — Fri, 17 Nov 2023 11:16:28 +0000

Duckhorn Vineyards.

The deal includes six estate vineyards spanning a total of 454ha in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations.

Deirdre Mahlan, chair and CEO of The Duckhorn Portfolio, said: ‘Sonoma-Cutrer is an iconic, highly acclaimed winery brand with a long history of crafting exceptional wines in a timeless style and is a perfect addition to our thoughtfully curated portfolio of luxury wines.’

Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded The Duckhorn Portfolio in St Helena, California, in 1976. It has spent the past 46 years establishing itself as one of the leading producers of Napa Valley wines. The group owns 10 wineries, seven tasting rooms and more than 440ha of vineyards spanning 32 estate properties in California and Washington State.

However, it lacks a meaningful presence in Chardonnay, which is the most popular white varietal in the US market, so this deal should plug a major gap in the portfolio.

Deirdre Mahlan, chair and CEO of The Duckhorn Portfolio. Credit: The Duckhorn Portfolio

‘Sonoma-Cutrer is among the fastest-growing major brands in the luxury Chardonnay category,’ said Mahlan, who is also the group’s interim president. ‘We see opportunity to further accelerate that growth and enhance operating margins of the combined business. This transaction expands our presence and visibility, diversifies our portfolio of luxury American winery brands and dramatically increases our position in the luxury Chardonnay category.’

The Duckhorn Portfolio went public on the New York Stock Exchange in March 2021, with NAPA as its ticket, after raising $300m in an IPO [Initial Public Offering]. Its wines are available throughout the United States and they are exported to more than 50 countries around the world.

In the 12 months to 31 July 2023, unaudited financial reports estimate that Sonoma-Cutrer had approximately $84m in net sales. The Duckhorn Portfolio believes that it can operate at similar margins to the other wineries within its group.

Credit: The Duckhorn Portfolio

Management also expects to achieve $5m in annual cost savings by merging its operations with those of Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards. These savings will be realised in full during the 2025 fiscal year. Brown-Forman, which produces Jack Daniel’s, Woodford Reserve and many more famous spirits brands, will receive cash and stock as part of the $400m deal.

A Brown-Forman executive will also sit on The Duckhorn Portfolio’s board. ‘The Duckhorn Portfolio has some of the world’s most-respected luxury wine brands and Brown-Forman looks forward to participating in its future growth through a minority equity stake and board membership,’ said Lawson Whiting, president and CEO of Brown-Forman.

In May 2022, The Duckhorn Portfolio bolstered its presence on California’s Central Coast by purchasing 107 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the Paso Robles AVA in the shape of Bottom Line Ranch in the San Miguel District.

Sonoma County AVAs: Overview and 10 wines to try

Adelaida District 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Luxury Napa villa with Cabernet vines goes on sale for $22m

The post The Duckhorn Portfolio to purchase Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards for $400m appeared first on Decanter.

Willow Creek 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Brianne Cohen — Wed, 15 Nov 2023 10:46:39 +0000

Heart Hill in the Willow Creek AVA

Just south of the sub-AVA Adelaida District lies Willow Creek, a high rainfall, high-elevation sub-district with similar properties. J Dusi Wines, a legacy Paso producer, has been farming the Paper Street vineyard, which straddles Adelaida and Willow Creek, for close to 10 years. The vineyard is planted to head-trained Zinfandel with cuttings from the Dusis’ century-old Dusi vineyard.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Willow Creek 2021 wines

Cohen’s pick from Willow Creek 2021: the sub-appellation’s standout wines

Paso Robles: California’s quintessential yet eclectic wine region

Paso Robles vineyards & wineries to visit

Napa Cabernet 2020: Vintage report and top recommendations

The post Willow Creek 2021: Report and top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

American Zinfandel on Zinfandel Day

Clive Pursehouse — Wed, 15 Nov 2023 07:00:34 +0000

Old Zinfandel vines in Sonoma Valley.

For a time, Zinfandel was thought of as indigenous to the United States. Still, that commonly held belief was proven premature as the connections to Italian Primitivo proved the two nearly an exact genetic match.

Though that association with California has not always been a positive one, Zinfandel has long been an important part of Californian fine wine, and the variety is seeing a resurgence.

Despite its Adriatic origins, Zinfandel may have come to the United States through Long Island but via Vienna, Austria.

Conventional wisdom holds that Zinfandel made its way to California with those seeking their fortunes as part of the Gold Rush in the 1850s. Perhaps the first Zinfandel of note was made by Joseph W. Osborne from a vineyard in Oak Knoll District, now one of the sub-appellations of Napa Valley. The praise his wine garnered resulted in the broad planting of the grape, which grew to the most planted in California in the early 1900s.

America’s great mistake of Prohibition would destroy many, though not all, of these old Zinfandel vineyards and set the grape and American wine back decades. The historical setback would derail the development of California’s fine wine culture.

Many vineyards that remained after Prohibition were located in California’s Central Valley, a region known for quantity production rather than the production of fine wine. Napa Valley, with wines showing promise in the mid-1800s, wouldn’t come to international prominence for more than another 100 years.

Winemaker Todd Graff of Frank Family Vineyards. Credit: Frank Family Vineyards

As California’s reputation for wine progressed, Zinfandel found itself squeezed out in many places by Cabernet Sauvignon. This trend, coupled with the soaring commercial success of the sickly sweet, blush wine known as ‘White Zin’, has saddled the once noble and benchmark variety in California with a poor reputation.

‘It’s no secret that California Zinfandel has been subject to misunderstanding,’ says Frank Family Vineyards winemaker Todd Graff. ‘In the 20th century, a majority of California Zinfandel planted was either overly jammy and high in alcohol or semi-sweet and pink. There are many of us trying to shift that narrative today.’

Yet it is California’s Zinfandel legacy which may save it and return it to its rightful place atop America’s pantheon of fine wines.

‘Old vineyards produce some of the world’s richest, most characterful and delicious wines’, says Don Hartford, co-owner of Hartford Family Winery. ‘In California, we have 100-year-old Zinfandel vineyards that display intense aromatic, flavour and textural complexities.’

‘California Zinfandel is remarkable for the age of its vineyards, the people who farm them and the vibrancy of the Zinfandel varietal. For these reasons, I think California Zinfandel will be important for years to come,’ Hartford concludes.

Tasting notes and scores for 10 American Zinfandels

California Zinfandel: The names to know

Ridge Vineyards: Producer profile and six new releases tasted

Elaine Chukan Brown: In defence of Zinfandel

The post American Zinfandel on Zinfandel Day appeared first on Decanter.

Adelaida District 2021: Report and top-scoring wines

Brianne Cohen — Tue, 14 Nov 2023 20:22:57 +0000

Grapes at harvest time.

Home of top-quality Paso wine, Adelaida is the westernmost of the sub-districts and closest to the Pacific Ocean.

At its closest point, Adelaida lies just less than 10km from the coast, with the Santa Lucia Range mountains in between the two. The average rainfall in Adelaida is generally the highest in the Paso region, at 635mm per year, and in 2021 the bulk of the rain came from one late-winter storm.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Adelaida District 2021 wines

Tablas Creek reported 330mm of rainfall that year, with 300mm coming from that one storm. The Adelaida district boasts the highest elevation in Paso, up to 670m.

Cohen’s pick from Adelaida District 2021: the sub-appellation’s standout wines

Paso Robles: California’s quintessential yet eclectic wine region

Paso Robles vineyards & wineries to visit

Napa Cabernet 2020: Vintage report and top recommendations

The post Adelaida District 2021: Report and top-scoring wines appeared first on Decanter.

A guide to non-vintage Champagne

Tom Hewson — Fri, 10 Nov 2023 08:00:56 +0000

Philipponnat, Royale Réserve Brut

Next to Champagne’s rare treasures, the humble term non-vintage doesn’t exactly stir the passions. Defining something by what isn’t there seems a strange approach. Even the French term ‘brut sans année’ (literally, ‘brut without vintage’) sounds a little apologetic. But these are wines that are worth talking about.

Changes are afoot in the region, and it’s time to re-examine Champagne’s entry level. Non-vintage is the bread and butter of Champagne, accounting for some four-fifths of all Champagne sold, according to the most recent figures from the region’s governing body. The term refers to Champagnes made by blending wines from a base year – the most recent harvest – with reserve wines held back from previous years. The wine must spend a minimum 15 months in bottle for the second fermentation and ageing on lees, in contrast to three years for vintage wines.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 15 non-vintage Champagnes

New approach: Hewson’s characterful 15 non-vintage Champagnes to know

All wines recommended are non-vintage or ‘multi-vintage’ blends

Grape Varieties – Decanter

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